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--Boundary_(ID_rZ3lH9T0pQXS6AHn6yE63g)
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*Starling resistant feeders*
The visit of a Baltimore Oriole to our feeders brought to a head our
problems with starlings gobbling our bird food. As Lois put out special
goodies to try to help the oriole survive (successfully!), the starlings
zeroed in on the peanut butter and meal worms and such. They easily
squeezed the oriole out. So we decided to build a feeder that the oriole
could use and the starlings could not. It appeared from our bird books
that orioles are enough smaller than starlings to make this possible.
Nest box plans claim that a starling can not get into a box whose entry
is no more than 1.5" in diameter. So we began with a box about 5" high,
with a side made up of ¼" dowels, with a 1.5"space between them (1.75"
centre to centre). This proved to be optimistic. Starlings may not be
able to go through a 1.5" hole, but they were able to scrunch up a bit
with the extra height and zip through.
To narrow the opening, I redrilled the holes for 3/8" dowels -- giving a
1.375" separation. The starlings still slipped through, though less
easily. We were on the right track.
Rebuilding now with ½" dowels left a 1.25" space. What joy to see a
starling fly up to the feeder, ram its head through the opening, and
come to a grinding halt! As it turned out, the feeder was not completely
starling proof. A few smaller starlings could still squeeze through the
slot, but even they had trouble. In one case Lois was able to dash out
of the house, run to the feeder and open it in time to catch one of them
before it could squeeze back out!
If I had been able to redrill the holes completely accurately, we might
have achieved starling proof instead of starling resistant. A couple of
the slots are slightly more than 1.3" wide, instead of the designed 1.25".
For those struggling with large flocks of starlings, this is an easily
built, covered, platform feeder, which will allow the smaller birds (up
to size of an oriole, at least) access, but keep out most if not all
starlings. Allow access through dowel walls. Drill your dowel holes on
centres separated 1.25" plus the width of your dowel. I'd use ¼" dowels
on 1.5" centres.
We have also made a covered platform feeder that pigeons can't take
over. A horizontal bar across the open sides leaves a space 2.35" high.
That choice was a lucky guess, and hasn't been changed because it works.
Blue jays and evening grosbeaks (and starlings) can get in, but pigeons
cannot. This significantly reduces our pigeon flock, and makes life a
lot easier for the smaller birds.
A cage made out of lobster pot mesh also works, It is just large enough
to admit an oriole (in some cases with some struggle), but small enough
to exclude all but the smallest starlings.
Don Codling
L. Sackville
--Boundary_(ID_rZ3lH9T0pQXS6AHn6yE63g)
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<div class="moz-forward-container"><b>Starling resistant feeders</b><br>
<br>
The visit of a Baltimore Oriole to our feeders brought to a head
our problems with starlings gobbling our bird food. As Lois put
out special goodies to try to help the oriole survive
(successfully!), the starlings zeroed in on the peanut butter and
meal worms and such. They easily squeezed the oriole out. So we
decided to build a feeder that the oriole could use and the
starlings could not. It appeared from our bird books that orioles
are enough smaller than starlings to make this possible.<br>
<br>
Nest box plans claim that a starling can not get into a box whose
entry is no more than 1.5" in diameter. So we began with a box
about 5" high, with a side made up of ¼" dowels, with a 1.5"space
between them (1.75" centre to centre). This proved to be
optimistic. Starlings may not be able to go through a 1.5" hole,
but they were able to scrunch up a bit with the extra height and
zip through. <br>
<br>
To narrow the opening, I redrilled the holes for ⅜" dowels –
giving a 1.375" separation. The starlings still slipped through,
though less easily. We were on the right track.<br>
<br>
Rebuilding now with ½" dowels left a 1.25" space. What joy to see
a starling fly up to the feeder, ram its head through the opening,
and come to a grinding halt! As it turned out, the feeder was not
completely starling proof. A few smaller starlings could still
squeeze through the slot, but even they had trouble. In one case
Lois was able to dash out of the house, run to the feeder and open
it in time to catch one of them before it could squeeze back out!<br>
<br>
If I had been able to redrill the holes completely accurately, we
might have achieved starling proof instead of starling resistant.
A couple of the slots are slightly more than 1.3" wide, instead of
the designed 1.25". <br>
<br>
For those struggling with large flocks of starlings, this is an
easily built, covered, platform feeder, which will allow the
smaller birds (up to size of an oriole, at least) access, but keep
out most if not all starlings. Allow access through dowel walls.
Drill your dowel holes on centres separated 1.25" plus the width
of your dowel. I’d use ¼" dowels on 1.5" centres.<br>
<br>
We have also made a covered platform feeder that pigeons can’t
take over. A horizontal bar across the open sides leaves a space
2.35" high. That choice was a lucky guess, and hasn’t been changed
because it works. Blue jays and evening grosbeaks (and starlings)
can get in, but pigeons cannot. This significantly reduces our
pigeon flock, and makes life a lot easier for the smaller birds.<br>
<br>
A cage made out of lobster pot mesh also works, It is just large
enough to admit an oriole (in some cases with some struggle), but
small enough to exclude all but the smallest starlings.<br>
<br>
Don Codling<br>
L. Sackville <br>
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