[NatureNS] Starling proof feeder

Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 21:48:15 -0400
From: Lois Codling <loiscodling@hfx.eastlink.ca>
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*Starling resistant feeders*

The visit of a Baltimore Oriole to our feeders brought to a head our 
problems with starlings gobbling our bird food. As Lois put out special 
goodies to try to help the oriole survive (successfully!), the starlings 
zeroed in on the peanut butter and meal worms and such. They easily 
squeezed the oriole out. So we decided to build a feeder that the oriole 
could use and the starlings could not. It appeared from our bird books 
that orioles are enough smaller than starlings to make this possible.

Nest box plans claim that a starling can not get into a box whose entry 
is no more than 1.5" in diameter. So we began with a box about 5" high, 
with a side made up of ¼" dowels, with a 1.5"space between them (1.75" 
centre to centre). This proved to be optimistic. Starlings may not be 
able to go through a 1.5" hole, but they were able to scrunch up a bit 
with the extra height and zip through.

To narrow the opening, I redrilled the holes for 3/8" dowels -- giving a 
1.375" separation. The starlings still slipped through, though less 
easily. We were on the right track.

Rebuilding now with ½" dowels left a 1.25" space. What joy to see a 
starling fly up to the feeder, ram its head through the opening, and 
come to a grinding halt! As it turned out, the feeder was not completely 
starling proof. A few smaller starlings could still squeeze through the 
slot, but even they had trouble. In one case Lois was able to dash out 
of the house, run to the feeder and open it in time to catch one of them 
before it could squeeze back out!

If I had been able to redrill the holes completely accurately, we might 
have achieved starling proof instead of starling resistant. A couple of 
the slots are slightly more than 1.3" wide, instead of the designed 1.25".

For those struggling with large flocks of starlings, this is an easily 
built, covered, platform feeder, which will allow the smaller birds (up 
to size of an oriole, at least) access, but keep out most if not all 
starlings. Allow access through dowel walls. Drill your dowel holes on 
centres separated 1.25" plus the width of your dowel. I'd use ¼" dowels 
on 1.5" centres.

We have also made a covered platform feeder that pigeons can't take 
over. A horizontal bar across the open sides leaves a space 2.35" high. 
That choice was a lucky guess, and hasn't been changed because it works. 
Blue jays and evening grosbeaks (and starlings) can get in, but pigeons 
cannot. This significantly reduces our pigeon flock, and makes life a 
lot easier for the smaller birds.

A cage made out of lobster pot mesh also works, It is just large enough 
to admit an oriole (in some cases with some struggle), but small enough 
to exclude all but the smallest starlings.

Don Codling
L. Sackville


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    <br>
    <div class="moz-forward-container"><b>Starling resistant feeders</b><br>
      <br>
      The visit of a Baltimore Oriole to our feeders brought to a head
      our problems with starlings gobbling our bird food. As Lois put
      out special goodies to try to help the oriole survive
      (successfully!), the starlings zeroed in on the peanut butter and
      meal worms and such. They easily squeezed the oriole out. So we
      decided to build a feeder that the oriole could use and the
      starlings could not. It appeared from our bird books that orioles
      are enough smaller than starlings to make this possible.<br>
      <br>
      Nest box plans claim that a starling can not get into a box whose
      entry is no more than 1.5" in diameter. So we began with a box
      about 5" high, with a side made up of &frac14;" dowels, with a 1.5"space
      between them (1.75" centre to centre). This proved to be
      optimistic. Starlings may not be able to go through a 1.5" hole,
      but they were able to scrunch up a bit with the extra height and
      zip through. <br>
      <br>
      To narrow the opening, I redrilled the holes for &#8540;" dowels &#8211;
      giving a 1.375" separation. The starlings still slipped through,
      though less easily. We were on the right track.<br>
      <br>
      Rebuilding now with &frac12;" dowels left a 1.25" space. What joy to see
      a starling fly up to the feeder, ram its head through the opening,
      and come to a grinding halt! As it turned out, the feeder was not
      completely starling proof. A few smaller starlings could still
      squeeze through the slot, but even they had trouble. In one case
      Lois was able to dash out of the house, run to the feeder and open
      it in time to catch one of them before it could squeeze back out!<br>
      <br>
      If I had been able to redrill the holes completely accurately, we
      might have achieved starling proof instead of starling resistant.
      A couple of the slots are slightly more than 1.3" wide, instead of
      the designed 1.25". <br>
      <br>
      For those struggling with large flocks of starlings, this is an
      easily built, covered, platform feeder, which will allow the
      smaller birds (up to size of an oriole, at least) access, but keep
      out most if not all starlings. Allow access through dowel walls.
      Drill your dowel holes on centres separated 1.25" plus the width
      of your dowel. I&#8217;d use &frac14;" dowels on 1.5" centres.<br>
      <br>
      We have also made a covered platform feeder that pigeons can&#8217;t
      take over. A horizontal bar across the open sides leaves a space
      2.35" high. That choice was a lucky guess, and hasn&#8217;t been changed
      because it works. Blue jays and evening grosbeaks (and starlings)
      can get in, but pigeons cannot. This significantly reduces our
      pigeon flock, and makes life a lot easier for the smaller birds.<br>
      <br>
      A cage made out of lobster pot mesh also works, It is just large
      enough to admit an oriole (in some cases with some struggle), but
      small enough to exclude all but the smallest starlings.<br>
      <br>
      Don Codling<br>
      L. Sackville <br>
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